Adieu to Bali and Off to America!

Greetings from Seoul, Korea! We are headed home on schedule due to arrive in Nashville Thursday at 1:20 pm. Wednesday, our final day in Bali, we left our pleasant retreat in Ubud and rode with Aron, Hapny and sweet Sofie thirty minutes south to the rural location of Green school, where we spent much of the day. What an impressive hub of activity that place is. Bamboo is everywhere in all the construction and furnishings, an architect’s or designer’s showcase. It rained some in the morning, but ceased by midday to our relief. We observed Sofie in her “pre-k prep” program for the younger than 4-year-old kiddos. Sofie is the youngest class member at two-and-a-half, but she eagerly participated and knew the words of the songs at circle time. Her class and the entire school is a virtual United Nations of families from many different countries. We at home grown, home cooked Indonesian style lunch and after touring campus spent the remainder of the time in the common area, which was a coffee shop and a deli in separate open air bamboo huts. It’s where the parents hang out and we enjoyed chatting with several.

When Aron’s work day ended, we drove to a shop of hand crafted furniture and household items, beautiful works of art really. The wood furniture in Indonesia is amazing in its wood quality, design, construction and sturdiness. Hapny surprised us by insisting we accept small handmade gifts she bargained for with the owner/artisan. Hapny is a skillful negotiator in getting substantially better prices for objects than we ever could have on our own. Bargaining is a way of life there.

Next we drove to the beach at Sanur very near where we spent our first two nights in Bali. We dined on Italian food at a pleasant surfside restaurant and then strolled the beach soaking up the last bit of Bali beach ambience before driving to Denpasar and the airport where we said our good-byes to our host family and then boarded our flight at 1:30 am Thursday local time. We will fly next to Chicago, leaving shortly and hope to snooze on the long transoceanic leg of our journey home.

It has been a fantastic two weeks with virtually no problems and only minor scares with an irascible water buffalo and a bold thieving monkey. Thanks everyone for following our excellent adventure!

Monkey Mischief and Fish that Clean Feet

On Tuesday morning we enjoyed our usual Bali “kopi” (coffee) and sliced fresh papaya, mango, pineapple and banana with toast, egg and pancake. We planned to visit the monkey forest preserve and opted to walk rather than take a “taksi.” The walk was a longer, more strenuous two kilometers than we knew before we set out. When we reached the entrance to the monkey forest, we were amazed to see so many there to size up the visitors and look for handouts of bananas, the only approved monkey food. These were long-tailed macaques and we read carefully the warnings about not bringing in edibles or even water bottles because the monkeys could be aggressive. We witnessed this right away when one bold, but sneaky fellow did a skillful snatch and grab raid in a blindside attack of a woman vendor selling bananas to the visitors. We were careful to clutch our handbags tightly and keep our water bottles hidden. Monkeys like shiny objects and much to Dara’s surprise, a bold macaque leaped from ground to her shoulder, grabbed the sunglasses perched on her head and jumped off again before she knew what was happening. The thief went a short distance, then stopped to inspect his prize. We figured that was the last we would see of those sunglasses. To our delight, a valiant Frenchman stepped forward to lure the robber with a banana. When the monkey dropped the glasses and snatched the food, the man bolted forward and retrieved the glasses. Vive la France! Dara quickly tucked the glasses into her bag. We walked up the paved pathway toward the sacred monkey temple when we began to hear music and saw a procession of men and women in mostly white festive garb make their way to the temple site. We watched the ritual proceedings before wandering off to view a large gathering of humans and monkeys around an enormous tree hundreds of years old. The humans busily aimed cameras and recorders while the simians mostly scratched, preened and ignored them.

We left the monkey forest and found a nice café where we enjoyed our lunch and a refreshing breeze from the rice field in the rear of the building hidden from street view. It was very typical, the juxtaposition of urban streetscape and the rural acres of crops or pasture seen only from the backside. We took a taksi back to Sari Bamboo and enjoyed a nice dip in the pool. Then, a little local shopping for a few more gifts before a light supper at a small local Japanese restaurant, followed by yet one last shopping at a Balinese costume (and tiara!) boutique. While we shopped, Aron indulged his curiosity (and ours) with five minutes of fish therapy. Feet placed into a tank teeming with minnows called Garra Ruffa or doctor fish would immediately be swarmed by the fish nibbling at the dead skin, an effective, but very ticklish and rather creepy way to clean one’s feet. However, it was a highly entertaining form of therapy. Afterward, we stopped for more substantial food at the only California style Mexican restaurant in Ubud. We returned to our home base, packed and prepared for an early departure and long day on Wednesday, our last day in country.

Shopping, Gamelan and Dance

Monday was our first full day in Ubud. It also was Aron’s first day back to work as a teacher at Green School. So, the rest of us were on our own to walk along some scenic paths that separate the private bungalows, shops, and other structures. Our destination was the Bali equivalent of Walmart, a store called Bintang (also the name of a popular beer). The travelers greatly enjoyed shopping for textiles, wood and woven reed products, and small souvenirs. The prices were so affordable we happily overspent and loaded up with goodies to fill our suitcases and carry-on bags. While we shopped, Sofie was happily amused in the children’s play area and arcade. We ate at the “Amazy” fried chicken fast food restaurant at Bintang. “Fast food” is a misnomer or at least the application of the word “fast” is more along the lines of “sooner or later.” At nearly every meal we had in Bali, the food would be served gradually. One diner would receive an entrée and perhaps several minutes would pass before the next diner would be served. It is customary here to begin eating when one’s food is served rather than waiting for everyone to receive their food. Finally done with our outing and with all our packages in tow, we took a “taksi” back to Sari Bamboo. We refreshed ourselves with a dip in the pool. There’s no getting around that this is a tropical climate with rain forests amid the rice paddies. We’ve had to get used to feeling sweaty and grungy much of the time in Ubud.

In the evening, after Aron returned from work (a word that seems out of place in these environs and this blog), we drove to the temple site in Ubud where there are performances of traditional Balinese dance to the accompaniment of a 27 man gamelan music ensemble. The hour and 20 minute performance was interrupted midway by a light rain shower, but we and some 200 other audience members were herded from the outdoor venue to a covered performance area next door. It was surprising what a quiet and orderly transition this was. The rain was the first we had encountered on our tour. This was the beginning of the rainy season after all. The rain was short-lived and no problem for us. The dance and music were fascinating and the costumes were elaborate and gorgeous. The photos and video we shot tell the story in a way that words cannot.

“Tear a my car seat”

Mornings in Bali have kept a constant familiarity during our stay. Daylight breaks with the sounds of roosters crowing wherever we go. And oftentimes there are doves about cooing a repetitive lyric. Other birds twitter, crickets chirp and the occasional gecko announces its presence with its own name, “Geck-o, geck-o…” It’s a pleasant symphony to wake up to. On Sunday, we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at Sari Bamboo with our oh so delicious Bali coffee. The beans are ground to a fine powder to which hot water is added. No matter how strong you make it, even beyond espresso, the flavor is smooth and robust, never harsh or bitter. No cream required, just a spoon or two of sugar, if you like. It’s a delightful ritual.

We drove north of Ubud to Lake Batur, another crater lake at the base of the volcano (or “gunung”) of the same name. It is the most active of Bali’s volcanoes and frequently issues minor but noisy eruptions, they say. The lake is rimmed by a high ridge making for spectacular views from the main road that follows it. Like all roads in Indonesia, nearly all livelihood and settlement is situated at the shoulders, except for fishing and farming. We stopped for lunch at a ridge top restaurant offering a diverse buffet and tables along the glass walled scenic side. We drove a little farther and visited the Hindu temple at Pura Ulun Danu Batur. Again, those of us in short pants or skirts were given sarongs to wrap and cover our legs. At every stop we made this day we were besieged mostly by children eager to sell us postcards, small carvings, or jewelry. It felt awkward and induced some measure of guilt to avoid eye contact, say a firm “no thank you,” and keep walking. They would ask, “Where you from?” and do their best to engage you in conversation. To respond would only fuel their fervor and persistence.

Having seen this very ostentatious temple, we retraced our route to one of the most favored places of tourists and most photographed: the steep terraced green rice paddies just north of Ubud. We stopped for tea at one of the many ridge top cafes opposite the neat rows of terraced fields.

We returned to Ubud, did a little shopping for souvenirs and then drove south to a village so small it’s not on any map we saw. It’s where Aron, Hapny and Sofie live in a pretty tile-roofed house hidden behind a high masonry wall and metal gate, offering both privacy and security. We were there briefly to drop things and pick up other things they needed. Next we drove a short distance to the only restaurant in the village, a place so inexpensive that their family dines there nearly every evening. As promised, it was perhaps the best meal of our journey; and, no surprise, because the owner and chef, a local Balinese man, had lived and trained at a fine culinary academy in London. For roughly $15 total, the five of us dined on fresh grilled fish, chop cay (mixed vegetables) and rice. As on this night, Aron said they frequently were the only patrons present. So we wondered how our host managed to stay afloat. The setting was pleasant as well with a gurgling fountain spilling into a small decorative pond of koi and catfish.

And now, the riddle of this journal entry’s title: “Tear a my car seat.” Say it and you have just spoken a useful Indonesian phrase, “thank you.” [lysf]

From Lembongan to Ubud

We awoke with the sun on Saturday in our Lembongan island bungalow-with-a-view. Aron and Carol rented a motorbike to explore the island for an hour or so and reported finding a pristine beach on the other side of the island some 20 minutes away. Since there are no cars on Lembongan, it was not practical for us all to go. At midday we took the same boat that brought us back to the mainland at Padang Bai. There we enjoyed a delicious lunch in a funky little café. You can never tell by appearances where you will find the best food.

Back in our rental car again, we took the heavily trafficked road in the general direction of Ubud, our destination for the remainder of our visit. We stopped twice along the way to visit historic/religious sights along the way. The first one was Yeh Pulu, which featured a 14^th century stone wall carved with a pictorial story of a Hindu hero’s triumph over wild beasts and other adversity to win favor of a lovely maid, a time-honored theme in many cultures. As our guide led us down a stone path in a lush forest, we were shocked by the sudden appearance of a large unruly water buffalo galloping toward us with his master close behind. We scampered out of the way just in time feeling the adrenaline rush of escaping danger. We were the only visitors at this venue we read about in Lonely Planet. It was so obscure we needed to ask directions three separate times to find it. We were fortunate to have our sweet and helpful translator Hapny.

Our next stop was a heavily visited site called Goa Gajah, or elephant cave. This 11^th century site was still a very active religious and ceremonial location. Soon after, we arrived in Ubud, the so-called cultural heart of Bali. We found it teeming with Westerners, mostly European or Australian. (We’ve encountered very few North Americans here so far.) If this is the off-season, we shuddered to imagine the crowds at peak season. The city features street after street of upscale boutiques and restaurants catering to well-heeled tourists and the large “ex-pat” community living here.

Aron drove us to a beautiful garden setting with rental bungalows surrounding a pool, called Sari Bamboo. At roadside of this relatively quiet neighborhood was a large 3 story Balinese house with restaurant downstairs open to the pool and garden. We were so pleased to stay here and couldn’t wait to get out of our sweaty clothes and take a plunge. Aaahhh!! We enjoyed dinner of BBQ baby back ribs at a Japanese garden restaurant where we were the only guests. A stop at a local jazz club later featuring an Indonesian Janis Joplin, and then home to Sari Bamboo for the night.

Chasing the Volcano and Exotic Fish

On Friday, we left our private piece of heaven and headed for Padang Bai with plans to take a boat to one of the islands east of Bali. Rather than continue south along the coast road, which was rough with sharp curves climbing steeply and back down again, we took a main road inland from Amed to Amlapura, a city that was mostly destroyed during the 1963 eruption of Agung. All day this photographer sought in vain to capture a clear shot of this magnificent mountain. Alas, it stayed partly to mostly shrouded by clouds. When we arrived at the port of Padang Bai, our Bali hosts, Aron and Hapny, negotiated a deal among the gathering of boat operators for a roundtrip overnight excursion on a large Bali style boat to Lembongan, the nearest island to the southeast. After an hour’s ride at full throttle, we arrived at a lovely tourist oriented cove with clear water a beautiful shade of seafoam green. We disembarked wading through knee high water to a restaurant and inn called Bungalow No. 7. We had lunch there and took two rooms for the night. After settling in, we got our swimsuits on and hired a boat to take us out to the coral reef for snorkeling. In a word, “Wow!” The clear water showcased the vibrant corals and tropical fish. We counted dozens of different fish varieties previously seen only in large public aquariums. Oh, how we wished we had an underwater camera! When we returned to our cove and the second floor terraced Bali style bungalow, we caught yet another magnificent sunset. By now, the island’s electricity, which is turned off during daylight hours, was on and we dined at the water’s edge, enjoyed the night breeze and retired early for a good night’s rest.

Paradise Found at Wawa Wewe

When you find a place so beautiful and appealing, you’re inclined to want to linger and savor how whole and peaceful you feel there. Such was Wawa Wewe Resort: The cliff side view looking out on the clear blue Bali Sea with its rhythmic waves heard lapping the shore… the infinity-sided pool with its naturally perfect water temperature… and the cathedral-ceiling bungalow with its clean and airy ambience... not to mention the unique rustic bathroom with its garden and stone wall partly open to the sky above....Are you dreaming of Bali yet? Mmmm….

We awoke refreshed at sunrise Thursday and enjoyed a quiet swim in our private pool before being served Bali coffee and breakfast poolside. The five of us in two of the three total bungalows were still the exclusive guests here although a French couple arrived that evening and took the remaining room. It was easy to make the decision to stay here a second night. There was no phone service or wifi at our paradise resort, so we were keen to find a lunch venue offering both free amenities. We were perfectly accommodated up the coast road to Vienna Beach Resort. We dined, we blogged and we donned swimsuits to enjoy the beach and surf a few steps away. We rented snorkeling masks and flippers and swam out fifty yards or so to view the aquarium fish gliding beneath us. Later we drove a short distance to a different cove where Carol snorkeled above a Japanese boat sunk in battle during WWII. “Incredible…fascinating,” she reported. Then back to our little piece of heaven at Wawa Wewe, we swam once more in our private pool. There was much imaginary scheming how we could own, manage and live part-time or year round at a place like this. All in all, a very enjoyable day. Jia!

Dolphins on Holiday

When you go to bed at nine, it’s easy to get up before six, which is what we did with the plan to see dolphins at play. Apparently, early morning is the best time to do this. Boats in Bali are basically high-sided motorized canoes with wood poles mounted as outriggers on each side. Though small, they are surprisingly stable in the undulating waters. We spent an hour and a half trolling as far out from the shore as a mile and moving parallel to the beach, but we failed to sight even a single dolphin. Still, we enjoyed the boat ride, so all was not lost. When we returned to dry land, we packed up and continued driving eastward along the north shore. We stopped to tour a Hindu temple at Pura Meduwe Karang. We were wearing shorts and as a sign of respect, we were asked to wrap a sarong to cover our legs. (I guess the sight of all that alabaster skin was an eyesore!) We had to do this as well at the Saturday night temple dance ritual at Uluwatu. We continued our journey east in the shadow of the great volcano Agung, which had exploded as recently as the early 1960s. Several thousand people were killed in that blast. We stopped at a famous dive and snorkeling center located near the site of a WWII U.S. transport ship that had been torpedoed by the Japanese in shallow waters. We passed on the opportunity to snorkel and see the sunken ship up close in its watery grave. We ended up stopping near Ahmed at a beautiful cliff top resort called Wawa Wewe, where we were the only guests. The swimming pool was so inviting perched high on the side of the cliff looking out to the sea. We decided this would be the night to don tiaras and raise our glasses to toast with delicious Bali rice wine. Our host served a scrumptious dinner to us on what was a nearly perfect evening.

A Garden called Bali

Day four (Tuesday) was slow and relaxing. We decided to move a few miles east to a place with rooms right on the beach. We played in the surf some but under the hot sun we were careful not to overdo it. Bali is a feast for the eyes and a gardener’s paradise. So many varieties of blooming flora abound along with the proliferation of distinctive architectural details that are uniquely Balinese. In the evening we walked along the sandy beach at sunset to a restaurant next to our resort and enjoyed a delicious meal to the accompaniment of the gentle surf. We went to bed early in anticipation of getting up before 6 am for a boating rendezvous with dolphins.

Exploring North Bali

Hard to believe this was only our third day in Bali. We’ve already seen quite a lot that has highlighted the diverse beauty and tradition of the island. In Lovina we stayed in rustic bamboo and thatch-roofed bungalow style cottages and could hear the lapping surf on the other side of the vine-covered privacy wall. They named this place Nirwana for good reason, if you overlook the lousy toilet/shower. After breakfast in the hotel’s spacious restaurant without walls, we strolled down to the shoreline. The relatively calm waters made it seem more like a lake than the ocean. We were the only tourists in sight, but we attracted a small coterie of vendors carrying their wares of textiles, jewelry, carved objects and such. They tried to engage us in friendly conversation to smooth the way for their sales. We cut short our stroll to escape their intrusion which disappointed them and us. Aron wanted to drive us west to a deserted beach pictured in the Lonely Planet guidebook. This quest took up most of the day and we never found this idyllic beach, but we did happen upon an elegant seaside hotel and restaurant, where we were the exclusive patrons. We enjoyed a leisurely lunch by the sea and wanted to play in the elegantly landscaped pool, which was allowed only for guests of the hotel. We drove on in search of a spa and hot springs mentioned in the travel book. We found it, the Mimpi Spa, and indulged our need for the restorative warm springs followed by a dip in the cooler pool water. We drove back to Lovina for a second night with no plan for what the next day held in store for us. [mysf]

From Surf to Mountain top

Sunday started with a leisurely breakfast at our Sindhu beach café. Then we packed up and spent much of the day traversing the island by car stopping at scenic points as we snaked our way around volcanoes and beautiful crater lakes in Bali’s middle region. We began by driving across the southern province to the west shore where the surf crashes the beach from unbelievable heights. No surfers in sight where we were, and very few people dared go near the water’s edge. We visited Tanah Lot, one of the most sacred Hindu temple sites on Bali. It sits high on a jut of rocky shoreline that becomes an island at high tide, which is when we were there. Driving north from there, the vegetation became lush and the heavily traveled road was winding and steep. At the top of the ridge between two lakes, we stopped to eat at a roadside restaurant. We sampled the “cat poop” luwak coffee, a delicacy made famous by the movie “The Bucket List.” Coffee beans are eaten by a cat-like wild civet and the digested and excreted beans are gathered, cleaned (we hope) and brewed into a smooth and savory drink. We agreed the end result was quite delicious. Coming down the mountain on the north side we experienced the most horrific ride from the degraded and washed out road. Eventually we found ourselves on flat ground again at sea level and landed for a couple of nights in the sleepy seaside hamlet of Lovina. This being the off season for tourists, the quiet and relaxed atmosphere was much to our liking.

Bali is Beachin’!

Our first full day in Bali we spend much of it at the beach, a short walk from our villa-like quarters. The travelers are refreshed after a good night’s sleep in air conditioned comfort. No jet lag here! With Aron, Hapny and Sofie, we enjoy coffee and continental breakfast at the beachside café run by our Danish hosts and then stroll up the paved pathway parallel to the water between tree-shaded al fresco beach bars and small shops and stalls where vendors hawk their souvenirs. After changing into our swim wear, we find a shady spot near the water where we relax and play in the waves. Way out beyond a reef there are surfers riding large waves that crash and dissipate well before the beach. A search for sea glass is fruitless, but we do find some blue sea plastic (haha) and pieces of coral.
Later in the day Aron drives us through crazy rush hour like traffic to the southern tip of the Bukit peninsula to see the once a week at sundown performance of the traditional kecak and fire dance at the sacred Hindu temple site of Uluwatu. A chorus of 70 men sitting cross-legged in a circle of an outdoor bowl chant “ket-chak” continuously as various deities and ancestors reenact historic and religious stories. This is a not-to-be-missed performance for anyone visiting Bali.

We're Here!

Greetings from Sindhu beach in south Bali! Our flights from Chicago to Seoul and then to Denpasar, Bali, were on schedule and uneventful, which is what one prefers. We arrived at 11pm local time (noon on Friday for our Nashville fans). After paying $25 USD apiece for our visas and passing through customs without delays, we were met at the terminal entrance by Aron and Hapny, who was holding a soundly sleeping Sofie. Hugs and hellos said, we made our way to the rented Toyota mini van. A twenty minute ride through bustling city streets lined with palms and exotic cultural landmarks, we are nervously sharing the road with a rush of motorbikes and auto traffic, all “on the wrong side of the road.” We drove down a narrow street a block from the beach and Aron took us up a spiral staircase to a second floor balcony and our room!

We're Off

Uneventful departure from BNA Nashville. Arrive at Chicago’s O’Hare only to be met by a phone call from a concerned spouse with news of an earthquake in Bali! Epicenter located 100 miles southwest of Denpasar, our final flight destination. Local news reporting that tourists are running out of hotels and some buildings have collapsed and injuries as well. How timely for us! We remain fearless and undeterred here in Chicago as we await boarding our Korean Airlines flight to Incheon, Korea, for transfer to the final leg of our trip. Jia!

Two days to departure

We are packing and stressing... do we have cute umbrellas for our drinks, plenty of hand sanitizer, cash?

The darling Sofie appeared this week on the website of the Green School. (See right). In just a few days we will see her in person!

www.greenschool.org

Map of Bali and Indonesia

As you can see, Bali is not a large island, but it is home to more than 3 million people, the majority of whom (93%) are Hindu. It is also home to at least 3 volcanoes and is situated 8 degrees south of the equator just east of Java. The city of Ubud is the cultural center of the island and we will spend several days in that area since it is close to the Green School, where Dara's son Aron Vaughn teaches 11th grade physics and math. We are greatly looking forward to visiting this unique school with its environmental focus that has been the subject of feature reports on CNN, ABC, CNBC, BBC, and other news sources.

It will take us 25+hours to fly from Nashville to Chicago to Seoul, Korea to Denpasar, Bali. We don't know much about the itinerary at this point, except we will start out at a beach hotel probably at Sanur. Dara has amassed 2.75 million Indonesian Rupiah, which sounds like a suitcase full of bills, but is the equivalent of $350 and fits nicely in a money belt. We also know from our previous travels to Sumatra that US dollars are welcome in $20 bills (but they must be new and crisp...no dirty old money!). We will hope to post daily updates on our travels with photos and possibly video of the Bali environs starting on departure day October 13. Hope you will enjoy our journey! Here's a photo of Aron's family, wife Hapny and....drum roll please....the principal subject and motivation for this trip, sweet little Sofie (age 2 and a half), Dara's granddaughter!

Two weeks to departure

The travelers are excited about making their second trip to Indonesia. In 2008 we traveled to Tuk Tuk Sumatra for the wedding of Aron and Hapny. It was an exhilarating adventure. see our blog at http://tuktuktravels.blogspot.com/

On October 13 we will return to Indonesia, this time to Bali. Aron and Hapny, and daughter Sofie have moved from Sumatra to Bali and it is time for a visit!