Adieu to Bali and Off to America!

Greetings from Seoul, Korea! We are headed home on schedule due to arrive in Nashville Thursday at 1:20 pm. Wednesday, our final day in Bali, we left our pleasant retreat in Ubud and rode with Aron, Hapny and sweet Sofie thirty minutes south to the rural location of Green school, where we spent much of the day. What an impressive hub of activity that place is. Bamboo is everywhere in all the construction and furnishings, an architect’s or designer’s showcase. It rained some in the morning, but ceased by midday to our relief. We observed Sofie in her “pre-k prep” program for the younger than 4-year-old kiddos. Sofie is the youngest class member at two-and-a-half, but she eagerly participated and knew the words of the songs at circle time. Her class and the entire school is a virtual United Nations of families from many different countries. We at home grown, home cooked Indonesian style lunch and after touring campus spent the remainder of the time in the common area, which was a coffee shop and a deli in separate open air bamboo huts. It’s where the parents hang out and we enjoyed chatting with several.

When Aron’s work day ended, we drove to a shop of hand crafted furniture and household items, beautiful works of art really. The wood furniture in Indonesia is amazing in its wood quality, design, construction and sturdiness. Hapny surprised us by insisting we accept small handmade gifts she bargained for with the owner/artisan. Hapny is a skillful negotiator in getting substantially better prices for objects than we ever could have on our own. Bargaining is a way of life there.

Next we drove to the beach at Sanur very near where we spent our first two nights in Bali. We dined on Italian food at a pleasant surfside restaurant and then strolled the beach soaking up the last bit of Bali beach ambience before driving to Denpasar and the airport where we said our good-byes to our host family and then boarded our flight at 1:30 am Thursday local time. We will fly next to Chicago, leaving shortly and hope to snooze on the long transoceanic leg of our journey home.

It has been a fantastic two weeks with virtually no problems and only minor scares with an irascible water buffalo and a bold thieving monkey. Thanks everyone for following our excellent adventure!

Monkey Mischief and Fish that Clean Feet

On Tuesday morning we enjoyed our usual Bali “kopi” (coffee) and sliced fresh papaya, mango, pineapple and banana with toast, egg and pancake. We planned to visit the monkey forest preserve and opted to walk rather than take a “taksi.” The walk was a longer, more strenuous two kilometers than we knew before we set out. When we reached the entrance to the monkey forest, we were amazed to see so many there to size up the visitors and look for handouts of bananas, the only approved monkey food. These were long-tailed macaques and we read carefully the warnings about not bringing in edibles or even water bottles because the monkeys could be aggressive. We witnessed this right away when one bold, but sneaky fellow did a skillful snatch and grab raid in a blindside attack of a woman vendor selling bananas to the visitors. We were careful to clutch our handbags tightly and keep our water bottles hidden. Monkeys like shiny objects and much to Dara’s surprise, a bold macaque leaped from ground to her shoulder, grabbed the sunglasses perched on her head and jumped off again before she knew what was happening. The thief went a short distance, then stopped to inspect his prize. We figured that was the last we would see of those sunglasses. To our delight, a valiant Frenchman stepped forward to lure the robber with a banana. When the monkey dropped the glasses and snatched the food, the man bolted forward and retrieved the glasses. Vive la France! Dara quickly tucked the glasses into her bag. We walked up the paved pathway toward the sacred monkey temple when we began to hear music and saw a procession of men and women in mostly white festive garb make their way to the temple site. We watched the ritual proceedings before wandering off to view a large gathering of humans and monkeys around an enormous tree hundreds of years old. The humans busily aimed cameras and recorders while the simians mostly scratched, preened and ignored them.

We left the monkey forest and found a nice café where we enjoyed our lunch and a refreshing breeze from the rice field in the rear of the building hidden from street view. It was very typical, the juxtaposition of urban streetscape and the rural acres of crops or pasture seen only from the backside. We took a taksi back to Sari Bamboo and enjoyed a nice dip in the pool. Then, a little local shopping for a few more gifts before a light supper at a small local Japanese restaurant, followed by yet one last shopping at a Balinese costume (and tiara!) boutique. While we shopped, Aron indulged his curiosity (and ours) with five minutes of fish therapy. Feet placed into a tank teeming with minnows called Garra Ruffa or doctor fish would immediately be swarmed by the fish nibbling at the dead skin, an effective, but very ticklish and rather creepy way to clean one’s feet. However, it was a highly entertaining form of therapy. Afterward, we stopped for more substantial food at the only California style Mexican restaurant in Ubud. We returned to our home base, packed and prepared for an early departure and long day on Wednesday, our last day in country.

Shopping, Gamelan and Dance

Monday was our first full day in Ubud. It also was Aron’s first day back to work as a teacher at Green School. So, the rest of us were on our own to walk along some scenic paths that separate the private bungalows, shops, and other structures. Our destination was the Bali equivalent of Walmart, a store called Bintang (also the name of a popular beer). The travelers greatly enjoyed shopping for textiles, wood and woven reed products, and small souvenirs. The prices were so affordable we happily overspent and loaded up with goodies to fill our suitcases and carry-on bags. While we shopped, Sofie was happily amused in the children’s play area and arcade. We ate at the “Amazy” fried chicken fast food restaurant at Bintang. “Fast food” is a misnomer or at least the application of the word “fast” is more along the lines of “sooner or later.” At nearly every meal we had in Bali, the food would be served gradually. One diner would receive an entrée and perhaps several minutes would pass before the next diner would be served. It is customary here to begin eating when one’s food is served rather than waiting for everyone to receive their food. Finally done with our outing and with all our packages in tow, we took a “taksi” back to Sari Bamboo. We refreshed ourselves with a dip in the pool. There’s no getting around that this is a tropical climate with rain forests amid the rice paddies. We’ve had to get used to feeling sweaty and grungy much of the time in Ubud.

In the evening, after Aron returned from work (a word that seems out of place in these environs and this blog), we drove to the temple site in Ubud where there are performances of traditional Balinese dance to the accompaniment of a 27 man gamelan music ensemble. The hour and 20 minute performance was interrupted midway by a light rain shower, but we and some 200 other audience members were herded from the outdoor venue to a covered performance area next door. It was surprising what a quiet and orderly transition this was. The rain was the first we had encountered on our tour. This was the beginning of the rainy season after all. The rain was short-lived and no problem for us. The dance and music were fascinating and the costumes were elaborate and gorgeous. The photos and video we shot tell the story in a way that words cannot.

“Tear a my car seat”

Mornings in Bali have kept a constant familiarity during our stay. Daylight breaks with the sounds of roosters crowing wherever we go. And oftentimes there are doves about cooing a repetitive lyric. Other birds twitter, crickets chirp and the occasional gecko announces its presence with its own name, “Geck-o, geck-o…” It’s a pleasant symphony to wake up to. On Sunday, we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at Sari Bamboo with our oh so delicious Bali coffee. The beans are ground to a fine powder to which hot water is added. No matter how strong you make it, even beyond espresso, the flavor is smooth and robust, never harsh or bitter. No cream required, just a spoon or two of sugar, if you like. It’s a delightful ritual.

We drove north of Ubud to Lake Batur, another crater lake at the base of the volcano (or “gunung”) of the same name. It is the most active of Bali’s volcanoes and frequently issues minor but noisy eruptions, they say. The lake is rimmed by a high ridge making for spectacular views from the main road that follows it. Like all roads in Indonesia, nearly all livelihood and settlement is situated at the shoulders, except for fishing and farming. We stopped for lunch at a ridge top restaurant offering a diverse buffet and tables along the glass walled scenic side. We drove a little farther and visited the Hindu temple at Pura Ulun Danu Batur. Again, those of us in short pants or skirts were given sarongs to wrap and cover our legs. At every stop we made this day we were besieged mostly by children eager to sell us postcards, small carvings, or jewelry. It felt awkward and induced some measure of guilt to avoid eye contact, say a firm “no thank you,” and keep walking. They would ask, “Where you from?” and do their best to engage you in conversation. To respond would only fuel their fervor and persistence.

Having seen this very ostentatious temple, we retraced our route to one of the most favored places of tourists and most photographed: the steep terraced green rice paddies just north of Ubud. We stopped for tea at one of the many ridge top cafes opposite the neat rows of terraced fields.

We returned to Ubud, did a little shopping for souvenirs and then drove south to a village so small it’s not on any map we saw. It’s where Aron, Hapny and Sofie live in a pretty tile-roofed house hidden behind a high masonry wall and metal gate, offering both privacy and security. We were there briefly to drop things and pick up other things they needed. Next we drove a short distance to the only restaurant in the village, a place so inexpensive that their family dines there nearly every evening. As promised, it was perhaps the best meal of our journey; and, no surprise, because the owner and chef, a local Balinese man, had lived and trained at a fine culinary academy in London. For roughly $15 total, the five of us dined on fresh grilled fish, chop cay (mixed vegetables) and rice. As on this night, Aron said they frequently were the only patrons present. So we wondered how our host managed to stay afloat. The setting was pleasant as well with a gurgling fountain spilling into a small decorative pond of koi and catfish.

And now, the riddle of this journal entry’s title: “Tear a my car seat.” Say it and you have just spoken a useful Indonesian phrase, “thank you.” [lysf]

From Lembongan to Ubud

We awoke with the sun on Saturday in our Lembongan island bungalow-with-a-view. Aron and Carol rented a motorbike to explore the island for an hour or so and reported finding a pristine beach on the other side of the island some 20 minutes away. Since there are no cars on Lembongan, it was not practical for us all to go. At midday we took the same boat that brought us back to the mainland at Padang Bai. There we enjoyed a delicious lunch in a funky little café. You can never tell by appearances where you will find the best food.

Back in our rental car again, we took the heavily trafficked road in the general direction of Ubud, our destination for the remainder of our visit. We stopped twice along the way to visit historic/religious sights along the way. The first one was Yeh Pulu, which featured a 14^th century stone wall carved with a pictorial story of a Hindu hero’s triumph over wild beasts and other adversity to win favor of a lovely maid, a time-honored theme in many cultures. As our guide led us down a stone path in a lush forest, we were shocked by the sudden appearance of a large unruly water buffalo galloping toward us with his master close behind. We scampered out of the way just in time feeling the adrenaline rush of escaping danger. We were the only visitors at this venue we read about in Lonely Planet. It was so obscure we needed to ask directions three separate times to find it. We were fortunate to have our sweet and helpful translator Hapny.

Our next stop was a heavily visited site called Goa Gajah, or elephant cave. This 11^th century site was still a very active religious and ceremonial location. Soon after, we arrived in Ubud, the so-called cultural heart of Bali. We found it teeming with Westerners, mostly European or Australian. (We’ve encountered very few North Americans here so far.) If this is the off-season, we shuddered to imagine the crowds at peak season. The city features street after street of upscale boutiques and restaurants catering to well-heeled tourists and the large “ex-pat” community living here.

Aron drove us to a beautiful garden setting with rental bungalows surrounding a pool, called Sari Bamboo. At roadside of this relatively quiet neighborhood was a large 3 story Balinese house with restaurant downstairs open to the pool and garden. We were so pleased to stay here and couldn’t wait to get out of our sweaty clothes and take a plunge. Aaahhh!! We enjoyed dinner of BBQ baby back ribs at a Japanese garden restaurant where we were the only guests. A stop at a local jazz club later featuring an Indonesian Janis Joplin, and then home to Sari Bamboo for the night.

Chasing the Volcano and Exotic Fish

On Friday, we left our private piece of heaven and headed for Padang Bai with plans to take a boat to one of the islands east of Bali. Rather than continue south along the coast road, which was rough with sharp curves climbing steeply and back down again, we took a main road inland from Amed to Amlapura, a city that was mostly destroyed during the 1963 eruption of Agung. All day this photographer sought in vain to capture a clear shot of this magnificent mountain. Alas, it stayed partly to mostly shrouded by clouds. When we arrived at the port of Padang Bai, our Bali hosts, Aron and Hapny, negotiated a deal among the gathering of boat operators for a roundtrip overnight excursion on a large Bali style boat to Lembongan, the nearest island to the southeast. After an hour’s ride at full throttle, we arrived at a lovely tourist oriented cove with clear water a beautiful shade of seafoam green. We disembarked wading through knee high water to a restaurant and inn called Bungalow No. 7. We had lunch there and took two rooms for the night. After settling in, we got our swimsuits on and hired a boat to take us out to the coral reef for snorkeling. In a word, “Wow!” The clear water showcased the vibrant corals and tropical fish. We counted dozens of different fish varieties previously seen only in large public aquariums. Oh, how we wished we had an underwater camera! When we returned to our cove and the second floor terraced Bali style bungalow, we caught yet another magnificent sunset. By now, the island’s electricity, which is turned off during daylight hours, was on and we dined at the water’s edge, enjoyed the night breeze and retired early for a good night’s rest.

Paradise Found at Wawa Wewe

When you find a place so beautiful and appealing, you’re inclined to want to linger and savor how whole and peaceful you feel there. Such was Wawa Wewe Resort: The cliff side view looking out on the clear blue Bali Sea with its rhythmic waves heard lapping the shore… the infinity-sided pool with its naturally perfect water temperature… and the cathedral-ceiling bungalow with its clean and airy ambience... not to mention the unique rustic bathroom with its garden and stone wall partly open to the sky above....Are you dreaming of Bali yet? Mmmm….

We awoke refreshed at sunrise Thursday and enjoyed a quiet swim in our private pool before being served Bali coffee and breakfast poolside. The five of us in two of the three total bungalows were still the exclusive guests here although a French couple arrived that evening and took the remaining room. It was easy to make the decision to stay here a second night. There was no phone service or wifi at our paradise resort, so we were keen to find a lunch venue offering both free amenities. We were perfectly accommodated up the coast road to Vienna Beach Resort. We dined, we blogged and we donned swimsuits to enjoy the beach and surf a few steps away. We rented snorkeling masks and flippers and swam out fifty yards or so to view the aquarium fish gliding beneath us. Later we drove a short distance to a different cove where Carol snorkeled above a Japanese boat sunk in battle during WWII. “Incredible…fascinating,” she reported. Then back to our little piece of heaven at Wawa Wewe, we swam once more in our private pool. There was much imaginary scheming how we could own, manage and live part-time or year round at a place like this. All in all, a very enjoyable day. Jia!